Fast and Light in Avalanche Terrain

Almost all of my ski mountaineering and ski touring has been done solo.

Weasel on the peak

I could have sought company over the past year, but I just enjoy the mountains so much more when it's just me and the natural environment. Having the odd chat when crossing paths is good, but I don't need to have someone around all the time.

This predilection does mean that I need to be somewhat conservative in the mountains, as often if something goes wrong, I'll have to rely on myself for quite some time before assistance can get to me. Or I'll just have to drag my own carcass back to the car and then home (been there and done that).

That extra awareness and responsibility applies particularly to the threat that avalanche terrain poses. In Australia we are fortunate that the conditions are mostly not as dangerous as in places like Canada or the Alps. The 'mostly' qualifier is definitely needed though - every so often we get a dump that brings significant wind-loading, and thanks to being lulled into a false belief that Oz snow never really slides, people get on to dangerous terrain and end up as one of the few but growing avalanche fatalities in the Australian BC.

I'm still learning much about how to manage avalanche risk, but I think I've developed a decent approach to mitigating it thus far.

My Approach

Firstly, I start with snowfall. I usually keep a diary of the seasonal snowfall for an area, particularly when going overseas - it's often quite helpful to start a conditions diary a month out from a trip, just to begin to build a picture of the snowpack.

When planning an objective, I ask myself a series of questions:

• How much snow has fallen recently?

• Which direction are the prevailing winds during the snowfall?

• Are there any known weak layers?

• Has there been rapid change (heavy snowfall / change in temperatures)?

From there, I make an estimate of which kinds of terrain are likely to be safe. If the snowpack seems likely to be highly unstable, that is going to be low angled, simple terrain where avalanches are very unlikely to run and the consequences of one being triggered are not as bad.

Other times, the wind direction during the storm may rule out some aspects, but allow other parts of the mountain to be relatively safe. Only when snow stability is known to be very good is it possible to consider skiing on aspects and angles that otherwise are unsafe. The fundamental point is to have some idea and estimation about snow stability before heading out the door.

In my head, I'll have three categories of terrain before heading out:

• Likely safe - Usually low angled, windward aspects, little consequence terrain or more complex terrain only when snow stability is known to be high (eg. from previous days' observations).

• Unknown - Could be safe, could be dangerous. Further information required before entering these areas.

• Dangerous - Terrain that is recently wind-loaded, has a known weak layer, significant consequences if it does slide. These are parts of the mountain that are off limits for me unless local observations and tests alter my beliefs about conditions.

Once on the mountain, I think that the most important point is to start on Likely Safe terrain and begin to observe conditions. What I want to know is what the Unknown snow is up to - terrain that may be a great angle to ski, but could be subject to windslab or a weaker layer. The key point is to start with small, safer steps and gradually assess conditions before getting into more risky terrain.

There are helpful hints, observations and tests that I do along the way to start getting a more accurate, localised picture. From these observations, it might be the case that the terrain I called Unknown the night before is now most likely to be Dangerous, and I will dial back my objectives. Or what I see might make me feel more confident about snow stability, to the point where I can ski more serious terrain due to verified snow conditions.

The first thing to be on the lookout for are very obvious signs of snow instability. These include:

• Recent avalanche activity - will help indicate the size, aspect and angle of other likely avalanche areas. Any sign of avalanche activity in the past couple of days is a very good indicator of snow instability.

• Significant snowfall in past 24 hours - most avalanches occur within about a day of recent snowfall, especially if that loading has been rapid and heavy. Leeward aspects of the mountain are going to be the most dangerous. Significant snowfall is in the 30cm in 24hrs range.

• Obvious signs of instability - whumpfing (the sound of deeper layers of snow collapsing underfoot), a drum-like sound as you move across firm snow and shooting cracks are all red flags in regards to snow stability.

• Recent warming and rapid weather change - rapid warming of the snowpack can lead to increased avalanche conditions, such as through rainfall or a sudden spike in temperatures. Snow will always become less stable if it undergoes a rapid change, whether that be through rapid loading with more snow, or sudden and significant changes in temperatures.

Each of the above is a serious portent of avalanche activity - especially visible signs of avalanches and obvious signs of instability.

Other than these 'red flags', there are other ways in which to assess snow stability. The ones I use (in order of time required to conduct) are:

Pole poking - I push my pole in to get a feel for snow density and to feel what's under the surface. Inverting the pole can sometimes help in getting deeper. This test can be performed quickly and easily throughout the day to get a feel for the surface of the snowpack on multiple aspects and angles. This observational method is quick but can be limited to only the very top of the snowpack.

Block cutting - this takes a little longer - maybe 30 secs to a minute. I use my pole to isolate a shallow column in the snow, then give it a yank. If it slides easily (or worse, just slides off as you are isolating the block), then conditions are looking dodgy and it is time to back off and choose safer aspects or terrain. Again, this method doesn't reveal much about deeper layers within the snowpack.

Test slopes - Bruce Tremper (who writes the best books on avalanche awareness) describes these as gifts from the mountain that you should never hesitate to make use of. A good test slope has the angle and aspect that you are looking to ski, but is short and lacking in the nasty consequences of the bigger slopes you may later climb or ski. I usually just skin up and across them, jumping and weighting the slope as much as possible to try and get a response - especially near a convex part of the slope. If they do slide, 'enjoy' the ride and know that slopes of similar aspect and angle are almost sure to slide. An important proviso is to be aware of locally connected terrain, especially above the test slope.

Cornice bombs - are as close as most of us will come to chucking explosives on to a mountain face. Cornices are ready-made testing weights that can be released on to the snowpack to see how it responds. However, there are some risks; firstly, you must be sure that no one is below you when triggering cornices. Secondly, they are extremely dangerous to approach. Ideally, you will be roped up. If not, be extremely conservative by starting your approach a long way back, using your pole as a probe, and even sticking your uphill ski's tail under the snow to give you a bit more of an anchor. I prefer to poke with my pole from a distance, gouging out a roughly human weight block that will release and slide on down. Failure to trigger an avalanche is a good - but not indubitable - sign of snow stability.

Snow pits - my preferred test is the extended column, as it not only assesses snow stability, but also tests propagation within the snowpack. It may take a bit longer (due to being 90cm across and 30cm uphill), but testing an extended column gives a much better indication of the chance of a whole slope going at once. This is a great test to do to see where weaker layers are, and to get a sense of the latent energy stored within the accumulated snow. Can take about 10-20 minutes.

Ski cuts - having decided to ski a slope, ski cutting is a great way to test snow stability - of course, the hazard is that you are entering avalanche terrain to do the test. The idea is to ski quickly across a likely trigger zone (on top of a convex roll over, for example). If an avalanche is triggered, hopefully you will have enough speed to exit its path. It doesn't hurt to do a couple of these, increasing the force you apply to the snow each time. You also need to have a clear idea of where you will be able to escape, and be aware of triggering locally-connected terrain.

Snow pit on Bogong - good stability was evident on this day

Persistent Weak Layers and Late Spring

These are two areas where I do lack experience, and so won't dwell on too much. Basically, both of these factors can mean that the snowpack can avalanche in a big way (as in size two/three plus slides). For weak layers, that is particularly the case after recent loading. In spring, the way to mitigate danger is to get an alpine start and be off the steeps when it starts to warm up, and be very wary of rainfall and its effect on the snowpack. I'll be getting some experience in managing the latter of these hazards in Hakuba this April.

Avalanche Gear

It goes without saying - beacon, shovel and probe always go in my pack if there's a risk of avalanche...which means that they spend most of the Australian winter in the gear tub at home. The snow saw is a handy addition for digging pits, but I don't see it needing to come out every time, particularly if you have developed a detailed knowledge of the snowpack you are traveling on - guys like Tremper have argued that things like test slopes are probably more useful than snow pits if you can make use of them.

Airbag packs have taken off, no doubt in part due to clips like this appearing more frequently in the mainstream media:

This guy clearly fucks up, and is lucky not to get strained through trees in a barely-size two avalanche that has a forgiving run out zone. Could have been a lot worse, and he probably would have survived without the airbag pack.

For soloing, an airbag is kind of essential I think. If I get caught, I absolutely cannot end up buried, or else that will be lights out, and the beacon will only be helping with the body recovery. Besides conservative choices, I don't have the travel systems that people in groups do (eg. skiing one at a time, watching out for one another from safe spots). Hence the airbag becomes an important tool in mitigating some of the risk as a solo ski mountaineer.

I loved the idea of the lithium battery fan for an airbag backpack. What I was not so keen on was the weight - a bit over 3.6kg for an empty Black Diamond Saga 40.  Consequently, I've sold on the Saga, and have bought a couple of the new Removable Airbag System packs from Mammut.

The 'removable' aspect is great, because it allows me to move the one airbag I own between the two different packs - the Ultralight 20 and the Light 30.

I've got the Ultralight 20 for extremely light and fast spring missions. It is a very tight fit, but I can squeeze in everything I need for spring ski touring, with the whole shebang coming in at just over 4.5kg (which includes the airbag and carbon cylinder). If you know that you can ditch ancillary items like goggles or crampons, it could be more spacious, but right now it is pretty much as small as I can go for a daypack in the hills. Sans airbag, this pack is plenty big enough for ski mountaineering, and weighs in at just over 500g - making it quite suitable for days out without avalanche hazards as a stand alone pack.

Excitingly, it is a weight penalty of about a kilo to go from my normal spring touring pack to the airbag equipped UL. That is really cool for those of us who like the added safety whilst still traveling fast and light in the alpine.

Minimal features and minimal weight - Ultralight 20 (Mammut spike protector on the ice axe to prevent puncturing the airbag during deployment)

 

Notably thin profile means not a lot of storage

 Spring touring load just fits in

 Packing tip - make sure to use the space under the front of the airbag (can fit a puffy jacket there). Careful packing is needed to get everything in

The Light 30 is bigger and has more features than the UL, such as top lid and hip zippered pockets for small items, and the addition of some purpose-designed internal tool storage space for a shovel and probe. Rather than back panel access, it has a more traditional top zip to access the main compartment. As promised by the 30 liter designation, it has significantly more storage than the 20 liter version. It would be more than suitable for additional gear like ascent plates, a rope and extra clothing.

 

 Mammut Light 30 RAS backpack

Same load as above, much more room to use

Airbag unfolded - moving between packs and repacking is easy - especially if you watch the helpful videos on the Mammut website (Mammut airbags)

So it looks like the UL will be used when I can get away with a minimal load, whilst the Light will probably be more used in proper winter when I might need more layers / gear. The only penalties for taking the bigger pack are about 600g of extra weight and the fact that it will be a little harder to jam into the top of a multiday pack due to its more robust structure and size.

If I were being super critical, I'd wish that there was an in between sized pack - maybe a 25 or 28 liter version...but really, between these two packs I'll have my airbag pack needs thoroughly covered without creating a burdensome load on my back. Can't ask for much more than that.


Team Weasel

Ritualistic Coping with Abandoned Trip

Deja vu strikes - once again, I'm not in Japan skiing.

Thanks to some still undefined stomach bug, I had to bail.

Barely able to eat, diarrhea-affected, listless and malnourished, I wasn't going to make it through the trip to NZ with my partner, much less long days touring in Japan. All told, I've shed about 9kg, and I wasn't a big guy to start with.

Step one is going to be getting some nutrients into my body, and then resuming training for skimo activities later in the year. I guess a benefit of this process has been that I've become leaner, and I won't have any extra mass to drag up the hills anymore. I'll be doing a post or two on trail running for now...when I can resume running. I've lost a significant amount of strength and aerobic conditioning - more so than I've ever lost before.

There's been a fair bit of anguish with this illness too, and I can see me processing much of what has happened to me in an emotional sense for some time to come.

Anyway, on the gear loadout front, I decided to buy some nice things to play with when I do get back on the snow to make life more efficient in the alpine world.

Embracing Skimo Race Gear

I've reduced the mass of my ski/boot/binding/skin system to what seems to be a healthy minimum (will know more when I get to ski the new toothpicks...but even if they are sub-optimal for what I do, it isn't all that much more weight - as in 500g - to put a pair of Zero G85s or Atomic Backland UL 85s under my feet).

The under 4kg setup

I've turned my attention once again to my clothing system and daypack. Gone are the days of 40 or 50 liter climbing/touring packs for me. Basically, there's now two configurations in my mind - walking in to the hills to establish a base camp with the big pack and all my gear (70 liter Black Diamond Mission has done this well) and ski mountaineering (light and fast with small packs).

What about bivying? I could if I wanted to (and may do so at some point), but I think I'd rather a super long day than a crappy night in a snow hole. I'm happy to just keep on moving, especially with the efficiency that skis bring.

Beyond containing the gear I need, my ideal skimo pack should:

- have diagonal race-style ski carry (meaning that skis can go on the pack without removing the pack)
- include a 'safety box' - an accessible spot to put crampons (and maybe other odds and ends if they fit)
- have the provision to carry two ice axes
- be comfortable, simple and lightweight (around 600g)

The pack that I used most over the winter was the Dynafit Broad Peak 28. Can't really give enough praise to this thing - very light, durable enough, good range of features and enough storage for Australian BC shenanigans  (740g).

The topic of enough storage is also in my mind...as in, what did I actually end up with in my pack last season, and how much space do I really need? Below is the contents of my BP28 at the start of last season, as I discussed in the April post.

How much of the above needs to be there, or are there lighter-weight options that can be used? All up, the above weighed about 5.1kg, and would almost completely fill the capacity of the BP28.

Experience is a dear teacher, and fools will heed no other - so by the end of the season I was no longer carrying:

- Beanie (used hoods instead)
- Heavy gloves (only needed at the start of the day, looking at using heat pads if needed)
- Probe
- Snow saw
- Ski crampons (never used them or felt the desire for them)
- Arcteryx pants with bib (stayed in the pack the whole time)
- Nalgene bottle

Now it looks something like this:

From upper left going cloak-wise:

- 2x soft flasks, one of which has a filter that can purify water
- Lip balm and sunscreen
- Puffy jacket (down or synthetic)
- Repair/Emergency kit (contents at the end)
- Dynafit Mercury gloves
- Outdoor Research shell mitts
- Goggles
- CAMP Nanotech crampons
- CAMP Flash overpants
- Buff and headband
- 2x ski straps
- ARVA shovel
- Princeton Tech headlamp
- CAMP Norsa ice axe

In the repair/emergency kit is the following (in the white Dynafit bag):

- EPIRB
- Multitool
- Map
- Compass
- Pole basket
- Carabiner
- Clear plastic pouch with whistle, screw tightening heads, cordage, cable ties, waterproof matches, spare batteries for head torch and GPS, Goretex patches, pain killers and spare insert screws.

All up my pack now weighs in at 3.6kg (minus food and water). That's pretty good! There's also plenty of spare room in the pack, proving that I can drop down to a smaller (and hence lighter) daypack.

Doing so will drop a little more weight - I had a look at the Ultimate Direction 28, but felt that it wasn't quite what I was after and I wasn't a fan of how it fit. I've decided to go with the Salomon S-Lab X Alp 20, as it pretty much fulfills my above needs with enough capacity to carry a standard touring loadout, with a weight of 625g.

Salomon Alp-X 20

I'll keep the Broad Peak 28 until it dies, and the RC35 will stay around for those times I need more capacity than the Salomon or BP 28. Below is a bit of a visual comparison of the three packs - Broad Peak, RC35 and X-Alp 20.

BP 28 - a nice compact daysack - helmet storage is fine despite appearances

6ish liters of storage still available after being fully packed. Shovel handle sleeve is useful

Some wear and tear. Mesh side pocket and adjustable ski loop in view. Both are excellent features

Safety box has room for crampons plus more (I put gloves and goggles in here too)

RC35 with mesh helmet storage on front. Notably taller pack than the BP 28 and Alp-X 20

 Side access zip - handy but not essential given the back panel access. Significantly more space than either of the other two packs

Much worse ski loop on the RC35 - if your tail is over 110mm, you will not get your skis through the loop. The adjustable loop on the BP 28 is much better, and the X-Alp has a loop that can fit pretty much any ski

Zippered top pocket for more secure storage than the mesh pockets on the BP

X-Alp 20 - only access is through the full length zip on the back. Has about 5 liters extra storage not used by my typical loadout. Can fit extra layer or ascent plates with ease

Dual ice axe storage is excellent and secure. Elastic toggles on side are for helmet storage

Zippered safety box with protective lining inside - more durable and secure than the Dynafit system. Additional storage with the hip belt pouch (in view) and a drink bottle holder on the left shoulder strap

The other question is around a suitable airbag pack. The Black Diamond Saga 40 was good last year in Japan, and has many advantages over cylinder-based systems: easy to fly with, can be repacked if triggered, self-deflates and easy to practise with.

The biggest problem is the weight - almost 3.7kg for the pack by itself. That can lead to a daypack that can get up to 8 or 9kg, depending on the other gear taken. And that is definitely not a fast and light setup.

On the other hand, the Mammut Light Removable Airbag pack just touches on 2kg for the pack, airbag and carbon cylinder. And the pack itself is a quality bit of kit - 30 liters and only 1050g without the airbag and cylinder, making it useable when my smaller packs don't have the room for more gear. 

Dropping down to the Ultralight version is even more enticing - it weighs in at just over 1.5kg for the pack, airbag and cylinder...less than half the mass of the Saga (but with much less storage capacity for gear).

 Mammut RAS packs - and the first time I've borrowed an image from Wildsnow

CAMP Pants and Jacket

In spring, I often end up leaving my Goretex shell in my pack the whole day. It's more a case of needing just a bit of moisture/snow protection and more emphasis on wind resistance on the tops and ridges. Enter the CAMP Flash pants and jacket, offering pretty solid protection from the elements at about 300g total for both items.

The material is clearly not as durable or weather resistant as Goretex, but that makes it perfect for dealing with some gusty wind and light snow - and why the hell would you be touring in crapped out weather like rain anyway?

The top may only get use in spring, but the pants will most likely be a fixture throughout next southern season, as I rarely have to add a layer to my legs once I'm underway. The jacket is also notable for being able to be put on and taken off without even removing your pack!

CAMP Flash jacket and pants

Soft shells and Skimo race attire

I'm also embracing skimo race gear when it comes to clothing too. I've got some Millet pants and a soft shell jacket to try out next time I hit the skintrack, along with a Dynafit race top. Hopefully they'll help alleviate a tendency of mine to sweat too much at times, requiring more water than I would otherwise need.

The integrated gaiters of skimo-style pants are also a revelation. Lighter boots often compromise on water resistance, and it has not been uncommon for me to get to the end of a day in the Syborgs with a not insubstantial amount of moisture in the boot.

Dynafit DNA training top

Millet Pierra Menta jacket

New Petzl Ice Axes

Dane over at Cold Thistle did a post on two new ice axes coming out this year from Petzl - a new version of the Sumtec and an entirely new model called the Gully. I was already starting to contemplate selling my old Charlets and getting a set of Sumtecs, but the weight savings didn't seem to be worth the effort. That's changing with these two new offerings.

Petzl Charlet - 630g for each tool

My trusty Charlets have been great axes. They don't look as fancy as Nomics, but for general mountaineering and ice climbing up to WI 4, I've found them to be excellent and reliable...but they be heavy for skimo shenanigans.


New Sumtec - about 480g for each tool

 These look like a very solid axe, but are still about the same weight as the current Sumtec. Nice minimalist design.


Gully - 280g for each tool

These things look like the business - if they climb well. They lack the replaceable pick of the Sumtec, and will probably make some sacrifices in terms of performance. I'll be waiting on reviews before I commit one way or the other.


Team Weasel

Nutrition and Physical Training for Skimo

Physical training has been a habit for me for a long time now, but optimising it for mountain fitness is a reasonably new thing.

Random but pretty shot of Featherback

I've been lucky in some ways - I've had a pretty good basis in both aerobic activities (running, hiking) and strength training (climbing, gym workouts and gymnastics). I guess my fitness level is above average, but I rarely compare myself to others. What I do feel motivated by is the desire to climb and ski more every time I'm in the mountains. Training for ski mountaineering motivates me because it is one of the few activities that I have experienced where I want to keep going, but have felt like I have run out of steam at the end of some long days.

I've started tinkering with the ideas espoused by guys like Steve House and Mark Twight - becoming fit to the point where you are fit enough to achieve your goals whilst being hard to kill. That last bit refers to having the ability to persist through difficult periods and being able to function despite considerable fatigue and environmental duress.

One of the things that stands out in their assessment of uphill pursuits in the mountains is the need for a fundamentally strong aerobic base to one's fitness. In the past, I have probably trained too hard in an aerobic sense, which failed to properly train my aerobic fitness. That's not ideal, as most of the time I spend in the mountains is at a mid to low intensity of physical exertion. Unlike other activities and sports, ski mountaineering can go on for hours (or even a day or two) on end.

More like it - 140ish BPM

The Uphill Athlete program developed by Steve House reinforces the idea of having a strong and lasting aerobic base. This is by far the most important aspect of physical training - more important than strength or power endurance training.

In practice, it means that A LOT of my training is now done at a moderate heart rate - for me I try to stay between 130 and 140 BPM. Besides moderating exertion, the other defining feature is duration and volume - longer runs and hikes are better than short, intense sessions for building the aerobic base for big days in the mountains.


A typical week at the moment is:

Mon- Rest or minimal active recovery
Tue- Gym (general strength)
Wed-1.5 hour run
Thu- Smallish run or interval training
Fri- Gym (general strength)
Sat- 1.5 hour run (or shorter, interval-based running session)
Sun- Pack work / longer trail run

This is representative of a base phase, which is the major component of a training program for skimo.

I'll go into more detail about the core and strength programs another time. Or you could just buy this:

General running - done at aerobic threshold, increasing in duration at the program goes on

Interval training - 4min at aerobic threshold / 1min hard running (total of 6-8 intervals)

Pack work - water carries up hilly terrain (20+kg pack, staying near aerobic threshold)

Trail runs - emphasising hills, again staying at aerobic threshold (even if that means walking the hills at times)

A good session at Macedon - not amazingly fast, but all within the target HR zone with reasonable elevation gain

The less lengthy activity-specific phase (maybe 25% of the overall program) will reduce the gym time to one session a week, but increase the pack work and involve longer hikes and climbs. In essence, this is the stage of training where you beast yourself in the hills, and this was the phase that I probably inhabited too frequently in the past. It looks more like this:

Mon- Rest or minimal active recovery
Tue- Gym (specific strength training)
Wed-1.5 hour run
Thu- Gym (specific strength training) or lighter session
Fri- Smallish run or interval training
Sat- Longer run / ski tour (two to several hours)
Sun- Pack work / longer trail run / ski tour (two to several hours)

I'm thinking of dedicating 6 weeks to the general phase, 3 weeks to specific training and then a week of tapering into my trips away. I'll make sure that each week builds on the previous in terms of total hours training, along with the duration and difficulty of activities.

After that, a period of tapering leads into the season/objective/activity that was the goal of the training program.

For the forthcoming year, it looks like I'll be hitting these areas:

January - Furano, Hokkaido

April - Hakuba

July - local skiing / possible short trip to NZ?

Sep - spring skiing in Oz (Feathertop/Bogong/Main Range)

Nutrition

This aspect of mountain athleticism is currently being complicated by some suspected food allergies - I seem to have developed some food intolerances, and am still in the process of discovering what my body is happy with. I'll try and keep things general rather than fixating on my individual circumstances.

Camp Food

This refers to the (typically two) meals a day where you aren't on the move - breakfast and dinner.

I've been having muesli and water recently, but that may be changing (food allergy perchance?) I'm partial to wraps at home (egg, sweet potato, bean and avocado), but they aren't that practical in the mountains on multi-day trips. So for now, a solid serving of muesli gets me fueled for a skiing and climbing.

I also like to start the day with some Hydralite (sports drink powder), just to help counteract the effects of fluid loss. I usually leave camp with half a liter of water, and half a liter of sports drink. In spring I plan my routes to drop into creek lines when I need more fluid; in winter I either suck it up and go without replenishment, or would consider taking a stove (which could add nearly a kilo to my pack).

Individual sachets are the way forward

After a big day, I like to have some kid of food as soon as I get back, along with some more sports drink. I've been having bean salads, which are great, but pretty much anything quick and easy with carbs and protein is good. For dinner, I like a good mix of carbs, fat and protein. My favorite dish has been wholemeal pasta, a sachet of tomato paste, a tin of tuna/salmon and a bit of cheese melted in. A bit of dark chocolate goes well for desert.

This has worked great for me so far, but for longer trips I'll need some more variety!

Touring Food

This is the fuel that goes in during the day - it needs to be easily consumable, light, convenient and tasty.

I head out for a day with the following:

2 x OSM bars
2-3 x museli bars
Soy crisp mix or fruit and nut mix
2 x energy gels

Highly recommended (and from NZ); the One Square Meal bars

I don't always find the time to consume it all, but I find eating regularly is vital during the day. I'm pretty much climbing 90% of the day, as the descents don't take very long compared to the climbs. I have found eating at the bottom of a descent suits me, as I usually like to start skiing down reasonably soon after getting up top (often it's too windy and cold to sit around comfortably)

New Skis - Salomon Minim

These arrived from Germany the other day, and straight away their light weight was perceptible - the box they arrived in felt empty! They weigh in at 740g each, which is ridiculously light.

There are no obvious bells and whistles here. Outwardly, these are simply shaped and designed skis, but what differentiates them from other skimo race skis is the few extra mills under foot, which is said to enhance performance considerably. Paired with my Syborgs and a bastardised Yak/SCTT binding, the entire setup will tip the scales at 3.83kg...that's both skis, both boots and bindings.

I won't know how they ski until that first descent, but the ethos they embody is one that I am all about: maximum freedom of movement in the mountainous environment. More distance covered, more turns made, more lines skied - that's my version of living the dream. Killian thinks so too...

I'm seeing the Minim as being ideal for much of the Australian season - we don't have a deep snowpack most of the time, and they look like they'll handle icy conditions just fine. Also, I plan on doing much more 'resort uphilling' next year in bad weather, both to save money and for fitness training. The other role for these skis will be in true ski mountaineering, where there could be some long distance travel or technical climbing to be done, and I'll willingly trade some stability and performance on the down for the freedom of movement on the way up.

And as an added bonus, their lightweight means that they can sneak into the ski bag for Japan and get a good field test before the southern winter next year (if their skins arrive in time from Europe, that is!)

There's much to love about Japan, including the wide range of quality gear that their stores have. I'll mostly be browsing without buying (famous last words), although with a favorable Yen exchange rate, there are a few things I'll be keeping an eye out for:

- Atomic Backland 85 Ultralight ski (discussed before)

- Some quality running shorts (North Face Better than Naked, Patagonia Strider Pro or Dynafit options)

- Ultimate Direction Skimo 28 pack (28 liter pack with heaps of versatility, weighing in at 580g)

Attachments for 2x ice tools and A-frame or diagonal ski carry

Speaking of Japan, it'll be exciting to be in Hokkaido for the first time. The terrain and snowpack look fantastic already, and it will just be a matter of managing avalanche risk and weather to achieve some quality time in the mountains.


Team Weasel

Southern Season Done

Oz Season Summary 

 

Kicking the tips up...for now

First-person footage has its limitations, but it's better than nothing!

Days BC skiing - 

Bogong - 10
Feathertop - 6
Razorback - 2

Days resort skiing -

Hotham - 5
Falls Creek - 3
Buller - 1

Total days skied = 27


Even though we are almost mid-November, there is still snow for touring (more so in the Main Range - but I can't justify the 7 hours in the car with no more days off work). I skied from July to November, and got almost a full month of skiing in. I'm pretty happy with that!

Cairn Gully in November

Steeps on Feathertop

Witness me!

The season ended up being quite good; we've got probably a month more of skiing in than we did last year, and the snow depth and quality has been very good. The only complaint this year was the weather...even in spring there were precious few good weather days, and at times the precipitation fell as rain rather than snow (particularly when we had about 100mm in one evening!) The bad weather resulted in more days in resorts than I would like, but this did assist in me progressing my downhill technique quite a bit this season.

More steep lines on Feathertop

Bogong near Audax

Looking north from Feathertop to the Big Fella

I can't even remember where this is...

Last year I was very much a novice, but this year I felt at home on Bogong and Feathertop. I skied pretty much every line that I had aspired to, and I definitely noticed my technique improving throughout the season.

I can credit that improvement to a few things. The first is that simple yet elusive trick of getting forward and staying there. I've become much more aware of my posture, and have sought to feel the front of my skins against my boot tongues, and to project my hands forward (to encourage my shoulders to be forward of my hips). These strategies have worked, and I no longer get the excessive fatigue that I used to feel on the descent. The other thing that has helped has been curling my toes upwards in my boots - it results in pulling my skis back under me, which again maintains the weight forward on the skis.

In terms of boots and ramp angle, I've found that the TLT6 Performance is more than enough boot for me (hence the Salomon Mtn Labs have barely seen snow this winter). The La Sportiva Syborgs are only a tad softer than the TLT6, and have seen good use this season too. I probably only need two boots in total - a 1kg plus version for general touring, and a sub-1kg boot for longer days with more vertical.

As for ramp angle, I've found 0 to +5 is fine - anything more than that has a tendency to put me against my rear boot cuff more than I'd like.

Zero G 85 - tearing up spring snow

I have tried reading books, getting lessons and soliciting advice from the internet on how to improve my downhill technique. The one source that has been of use has been this book:

I can completely recommend buying this book for the way in which it breaks down the art of turning on skis. I take a notebook into the mountains, and in it were all the following tips from the book:

• All weight on the outside ski
• Transfer weight as early as possible to new outside ski
• Consciously guide the unweighted ski through the turn (pull it close to the outside ski)
• Ski with your legs, balance with your hands
• Keep the hands forward (shoulders ahead of hips)
• Flex down and forward to shorten turn radius (a really good tip)
• Move your weight, then change edge angle (not the other way around)
• Short radius turns can be done by collapsing the outside leg, along with a pole plant and skidded turns
• Active feet beneath a quiet upper body
• Relax into start of a turn, work the end of it harder to change turn shape
• For ice, ski gently, patiently and with forward body movement
• For steeps, use pole plants more, lift heels to bum for jump turns

I still have much work to do, and I want to start developing my technique on ice and the steeps more (particularly jump turns). Besides skiing more, I hope to get some video footage soon to help me adjust my posture and movement to become something resembling an expert skier.


By the end of the season, I was quite happy with the gear I used. I skied on the ZG85s more than any other ski - mostly to incentivise better skiing from me, as they are punishing of backseat driving. The Mtn Explore 95s got a few runs, but I didn't feel much need for the 95mm waist. A damn good ski nonetheless.

Salomon Mtn Explore 95s getting some turns in

As for boots, the Mtn Labs got a couple of resort days, but no touring...which might be their fate for the foreseeable future. A few hundred grams extra might not sound like much, but when it comes to walking in to somewhere like Feathertop to bootpack almost every ski descent, it quickly takes its toll. I spent most of the season going between the Syborgs and TLT6s - both have been outstanding. I've added a Booster strap to the Syborgs for a little more support, taking the pair up to 1850g.

Lightweight shenanigans

I've used ATK bindings for this season, and they have been outstanding. The Raider 12 2.0 was used for most of this season. I did experiment mixing the R12 with the SCTT heel and also the Plum Yak toe, but I think that the complete R12 (with toe shim) is perfect for most of my applications. The heel spacer is definitely a game changer - I noticed considerably better power transfer to the ski once I'd put it in position. Next year I may try to get a race binding and fit a heel spacer to it to see how it performs (R12 weighs 720g for the pair - super light race fixings can come in around 300-400g).

All my other gear performed exceedingly well, to the point where it made being in the mountains simple, easy and efficient.

Camping on Feathertop - like a summer holiday

Skialper 2017 Buyer's Guide - ski gear porn alert!

The guide itself is very much worth the 10 or so Euros to access, as they review the lighter end of the gear spectrum that other websites and publications seem to have neglected. I've made most of my recent purchases based on their ratings, and have not been disappointed. New gear that caught my eye included:

Atomic Backland 85 UL

Regarded as the best speed-touring ski tested, this ski looks superior to my Zero G 85 in almost every way. The only question is about the sidecut - might be a little too much for steep, icy skiing. Otherwise, in weight and dimensions it is similar to the ZG85, but has considerably better performance - and is said to be a lot of fun to ski. I'm definitely getting a pair before our next winter, and they should relegate the ZG85 to rock ski status if they are as good as they are proclaimed to be.


Salomon S-Lab Minim

I was looking at getting a pair of La Sportiva Syborg skis, as they have been on sale at a good price. The Minim has completely eclipsed the Syborg. For one thing, it's performance is outstanding, thanks mostly due to a few extra millimeters width when compared to other race skis. They sound ideal for fast and light ski mountaineering, or resort uphilling, which is something I want to do more of in bad weather next year (rather than paying for lift tickets). I'll have a sub-4kg setup if I combine these with my Syborg boots and a race binding.


Arcteryx Procline Carbon

These I can't justify buying until my TLT6s start dying, but they are certainly attracting a lot of hype. I'm not sure that they can ski as well as the TLT6, but I'm hoping to get a chance to try them on in Japan (along with the TLT7), if only to get a sense of the flex and range of mobility they offer. To be honest, they are probably wasted in Australia, as we don't have the technical climbing terrain to require anything more than a TLT6, crampons and a couple of ice axes.

Hokkaido Here I Come...

I've booked in for 3 weeks in Furano - looks like prime touring terrain, and they are already getting decent snowfall. I'll be working on my fitness until then, which (along with nutrition), I should do a post on soon.

Thanks to the Big Fella and Featherback - till next year

Team Weasel